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Spain

Jerez

The home of sherry — wine shaped by chalk, sun and a layer of yeast.

Sherry — an English corruption of "Jerez" — must be aged in one of three Andalusian towns, Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María, from grapes grown in the surrounding vineyards. It starts as a neutral white wine, mostly from Palomino, which is then fortified and aged in the solera system: tiers of barrels in which wine is drawn from the oldest and topped up from younger ones, so every bottle blends many years. The style depends on flor, a layer of yeast that grows on the wine's surface. Under flor, sherry stays pale and tangy (Fino, Manzanilla); without it, oxygen darkens it into nutty, rich Oloroso. Sweet Pedro Ximénez comes from grapes dried in the sun.

ClimateHot and dry, cooled by the damp Atlantic poniente wind
SoilsAlbariza — brilliant white, chalky soil that soaks up winter rain and reflects summer sun

What the region makes

Fino and Manzanilla

Aged under flor: pale, bone-dry, salty and almond-scented. Manzanilla comes from seaside Sanlúcar.

Amontillado

Starts under flor, then ages exposed to air: amber, nutty and dry.

Oloroso

Aged without flor: dark, rich, walnut and toffee — yet dry.

Pedro Ximénez

Thick, near-black and intensely sweet: figs, raisins, molasses.

Worth knowing

Flor thrives in the humid sea air of Sanlúcar, which is why Manzanilla tastes lighter and saltier than Fino.

Sherries labelled VOS and VORS must have an average age of at least 20 and 30 years.

Try this region if you like savoury, salty aperitifs — or dessert in a glass.

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